THE PENINSULA'S FIRST FAMILY OF WINE

Reunites under a new banner

T h e r e 's a t o u c h o f

the `dynastic' when

Rollo Crittenden

wanders the

vineyard, tending the

vines he planted in

1982 as a six year

old boy with his

f a t h e r, G a r r y .

While it's not a vineyard succession story

of Burgundian magnitude, the return of the

Crittenden children to help consolidate and

grow a new family venture is bound to bring

a smile to many Peninsula faces.

The recent growth of the Peninsula's wine

and tourism industry has obscured the

major roles played by Margaret and Garry

Crittenden to re-image the region during the

1980s and `90s.

Crittenden Senior says that Rollo's time

I just wanted to doddle along and have

away from the family business, establishing

some fun.

Always canny marketers and the first

a new winery and as its chief winemaker for

to establish a quality cellar door eatery,

"The residual good will towards us on the

five years, gave him invaluable experience

they paved the way for the viticultural

Peninsula saw us grow from a standing start

and helped to build his industry profile .

and gastronomic success of today's local

to where we are now in just three years, in

industry. Garry also headed-up the then

an era when it's very hard to start a new

" He certainly hasn't given up a well paid

new regional tourism body, which first

label. It's only recently that we have had

job to work under his father again. He will

united tourism and wine operators under a

business plans and have started to worry

be working alongside me and eventually

common marketing cause.

about growth.

for himself. There's certainly an element

of succession planning in our thinking. His

The Crittendens still occupy the parcel of

"However, we recently commissioned a

business card says `Wine Maker', but he has

land in Harrison's Road, Dromana that they

brand-audit and discovered that the market

a much broader role than that."

bought in the early `80s, but nowadays

was actually confused by the name, location

the bucolic lakeside property also features

and personnel changes during recent years.

Margaret Crittenden's love of quality food

luxury villas, an award winning restaurant

and local produce still finds expression

"So, we've made sure that our new brand

and a hip cellar door facility.

through her highly regarded home-made

and venture clearly communicates that we're

chutneys, relishes, jams and marmalades,

Daughter Zoe has temporarily put aside

still here at Harrisons Road and that we will

which are available at cellar door. However,

a career as an educational counsellor to

be doing some exciting things over the years

her mid-life rejuvenation has taken the form

help with the marketing. After five years

ahead. We're re-branding and re-imaging

of three luxury lakeside villas established on

as chief wine maker for a rival business,

everything to emphasise the connection

the property. She masterminded them from

Rollo returned to the fold in late July to

with our family and the property. Even in

concept through to planning, design and

also help build the new brand `Crittenden

the vineyard, a major grafting program is

construction.

Estate'. It embraces Geppetto Wines and the

underway to introduce new varieties and

Pinocchio line of Italian varieties.

new clones."

Re-working of the lake has ensured that

there is always water under the front

A new look, new varieties and a new attitude

While Rollo has taken-on the winemaking

balconies of the villas. A number of

are on the way. Far from wearying the 64

aspects of the business, including

promontories around the perimeter are

year old Crittenden Senior, he is finding

establishing a new wine-making facility at

linked by a wetland walk. It completes the

the new challenge invigorating, even after

Patterson Lakes, Garry does not see it as an

resort feel of the property, which has grown

spending half a lifetime establishing his

opportunity to slide into his slippers and a

enormously in its reputation for fine food

former wine brand.

few rounds of midweek golf.

since Jacquie and Zac Poulier leased the

2003 was a watershed year for the family,

In fact, it was his father's vision and ongoing

restaurant in 2004. `Stillwater at Crittenden'

when Garry broke ties with the company

enthusiasm for trying interesting new things

has just won the Australian Bridal Industry

he founded, Dromana Estate, and started

that appealed to Rollo.

award for best Victorian wedding venue.

afresh with the small scale Geppetto and

"I can't see any time when he will not be

One year old grandson Finn is the third

Pinocchio wines.

involved in the company, but he wants to

generation of Crittendens to grow up among

work `on' the business rather than `in' it.

" I thought I'd just dabble in semi-retirement

the vines and if his activity and burblings

He's always coming up with ideas and new

with a couple of thousand cases of wine.

around the kitchen table are any indication,

strategies, so I guess I'll be running around

I went back to basics, with wine tastings,

the future of the dynasty is in good hands.

after him, picking up the threads to put the

talks and working the media. There was no

by Tim Bracher

projects into action."

real pressure to reach any great heights.

69

www.visitor.com.au